Saturday, July 17, 2010

So you want to transition from relaxed to natural? Some tips

More and more women are seeking out information on how to maintain their hair in its natural state (and when I say this, I mean both kinky haired naturals as well as those with wavy/curly hair. The need to conform to straightness transcends all color lines). With Youtube, forums, blogs and endless articles on taking care of natural hair, the internet has become the place to turn to for getting back to your 'roots'. As a result, we're seeing more fros and curly hair being put on display and more people actually considering going natural.

So are you thinking about it? Or have you started your transition already? Great!! But let me tell you that the transitioning process isn't necessarily an easy one. In fact, it is my opinion that the hardest part of transitioning from relaxed to natural is the actual transitioning time. For those who are unclear about what I mean when I say transition, I'm referring to the time between your last relaxer and actually cutting off the last of the relaxed ends. What makes the transition time hard is the fact that you are dealing with two distinctly different textures that have different needs. (Side note: I've noticed that some people equate being natural to not relaxing your hair in awhile. You are transitioning to natural, but are not natural until you have cut off your relaxed ends). Here are some facts and tips to keep in mind while transitioning.

You can not transition and keep doing the same exact things to your hair.
This is the major mistake that people make that leads them back to relaxing their hair. Common complaints of dryness, breakage, or not being able to put a comb through it are reasons that people site for returning to relaxers. Yet, they a) don't ever moisturize their hair or mistake moisturizing for putting some product on their scalp b) don't really condition their hair or wash it at all c) try to pull through their hair from root to tip with the smallest comb ever or simply try to comb through hair that is dry since they don't do a or b. d) constantly put weaves, braids, wigs, or some other thing on their head in order to forget about their hair or e) just believe that not relaxing is all that you should have to do and that your hair should just do its thing. Some of these things may have worked for you as a relaxed head, but certainly won't when you're transitioning.

Dealing with two different textures makes you more prone to breakage if proper precautions aren't made
You'll hear people say "I can't go past 6-8 weeks without perming my hair or else it'll start breaking." This is not true IF you take care of your hair. The problem is that many of us don't take care of our hair in its relaxed state, are at the mercy of stylists, and certainly can't take of it when two textures become involved. When transitioning, this is your hair:

@@@@------- or ~~~~~------- or whatever your hair looks like

The point at which their is a change in textures is called the line of demarcation. This is the weakest point on your hair strand because it represents the point where there are two distinct types of textures. It is this area where breakage will most likely occur when one hasn't gotten a relaxer, leading to the 'breaking hair without relaxers' myth. Thus, when transitioning or stretching relaxers (I'll talk about stretching relaxers in another article), you want to baby this area, keeping it moist and strong and thus, less likely to break. How?

Moisture & Protein balance becomes essential during this time.
You can not transition and slum on the moisture.
End result>>dry, brittle, breaking hair. People find success in deep conditioning weekly or twice a week even for some people, using a moisturizing shampoo, cowashing a few times a week, and/or spraying a leave in/moisturizing spritz daily or twice a day focusing on the new growth and the line of demarcation. Whatever it is that you feel works for you, just always remember that the more moisture your roots and the line of demarcation has, the less likely you are to experience breakage and the more that your hair will thrive. That said, don't forget the protein which is needed to maintain strength. Some people like using a spritz that has both protein and moisture as a daily spray but only use moisturizing deep conditioners. Others alternate between moisturizing and protein conditioners and still others do big protein treatments ever month or so (ex aphogee). Figure out what works for your hair and stick with it. Keep in mind that this part is trial and error. One product or method might work for someone and suck for your hair. Another tip: You can also try applying deep conditioners with a relaxer brush as you'd apply a relaxer. This ensures that the conditioner is getting on the roots as well as the length.

Be careful about how you comb, detangle, and manipulate your hair
When washing, smooth your hair in one direction under the shower head. Don't go moving your hair every which way while washing or drying with a towel because not only is it unnecessary, but you also create tangles that way. Only comb through your hair from TIP TO ROOT, on wash day when your hair is wet or damp with conditioner or some type of detangling product that will give your hair some slip. I know some people get scared to touch their roots and they end up with matted, tangled hair. DO NOT SLACK ON DETANGLING. You will hate yourself if you do. If you have enough conditioner, wash your hair in sections, and use a wide tooth/shower comb or detangling paddle/denman brush, you should be able to completely detangle your hair. Furthermore, you shouldn't have to detangle or comb again until the next wash day depending on how you style your hair. Just remember to never ever ever comb your naturally textured hair dry. You're just asking for breakage. Keep a spray bottle of water and whatever else you like to spray when times call for you to manipulate your hair into a style or something outside of wash day but try to avoid styles that require lots of manipulation during the week.

Consider transitioning with braids, weaves, wigs, etc.
This option decreases frustration, allows you to retain a lot more of your growth, and allows and easy way to take care of your hair. Realize that I said an easy way to take care of your hair. As Ive said in other posts, do not put in these protective styles without taking care of your hair underneath. The end result is opposite of what we are trying to achieve. If going this route, find a moisturizing spray(ie African Pride, African Royale braid spray, S curl, Sta So Fro, etc) that works for you and spray it on YOUR hair through the braid/cornrows often, at minimum. If you're like me, deep condition ever week or other week while in these protective styles. With this transitioning method, you can also gradually cut off a set amount of hair after each take down, so that you're gradually cutting off the hair and don't really have to do a big chop at one time.

Avoid the urge to straighten throughout the transition
Some people constantly straighten their hair or use excess heat throughout their entire transition, only to result in thinner or heat damaged hair in the end. If you use heat during your transition, try to avoid doing it too often and be mindful of the amount (maybe a light blow dry here and there & using heat protectants when straightening is preferred). Your goal is to have healthy natural hair in the end. Don't mess it up before you even get to enjoy it.

Master some transition styles
For the transitioner, styling can become frustrating when leaving your hair out. There are some go to styles for transitioners that you should try or learn to master like bantu knot outs, twist/braid outs, various buns, roller sets/flexirod sets, etc. Look on youtube for some creative ideas and get to work! You want styles that blend the two textures and/or are low manipulation styles. Also consider investing in a good wig, instant weave, or phony ponies for those days when you don't have time or your hair isn't cooperating. For the weave wearer, consider getting textured weaves (waves/curly/kinky) if you'll be leaving out some of your hair. It makes it easier to blend your hair with it through braidouts/twistouts, or with your own texture without using heat. Or better yet, just get full head weaves so all of your hair remains protected.

The scarf is your friend
For buns and other styles that require you to lay your hair down, the scarf is your friend. Brush your hair with a boar bristle brush, put a little product (water, your spritz, an alcohol free gel, shea butter, etc), and tie your hair down with a silk or satin scarf for 20 min or overnight. Your hair will lie down and stay sleek.

How long you transition is your choice
Some people master all that is needed to handle their hair and can transition for 2+ years until they have a length that they are comfortable with. Others don't want to put in the work that goes along with a long transition & cut within a few months or do one big cut at once. Figure out what you can handle and weigh the pluses and minuses. If you can rock the low cut look, go for it (spring/summer is ideal for it). If you can't and want to reach a certain length before you cut, transition longer. I personally cut after a 9 month transition that was initially supposed to be a year. I just had that itch to get it over with. This happens too.

Don't let other people dictate what you do to your hair
Transitioning is not only a time to transition your hair, but also your mind. Ignorance is real and many people will show that to you. You have to realize that this is your hair,your choice, and your life. Straight & sleek is still the in thing and many people, including your closest friends and family, will try to discourage you and may even have the negativity about your decision. Develop a tough skin during this time or else you'll continue to do things for others. I heard some crazy things during my transition, some from my own mother. But, I had made up my mind that I was going natural and wasn't about to let anyone's ignorance bother me. Don't worry and don't argue. Sometimes the best thing you can do is just show people. You can toss your hair in their face when your hair becomes longer, fuller, and healthier than theirs:-)
Also, learn to love your natural texture. If every other day, you're talking about the 'nappy mess' on your head or how much you hate your natural hair or questioning God about why he didn't give you hair like Sally's, you are not going to survive the transition or being natural, and probably shouldn't be transitioning. You'll have enough negativity from others. Either take the transition time as a time to become familiar with your texture, love what God gave you, and let go of the negativity that has become so ingrained in our minds about natural hair, or take a step back to do some soul searching and try again another time. Do not become the person who tried for 3 months, quit, and then becomes the natural hair basher.
In the same token, don't transition because you like how someone else's hair looks and you secretly hope that when you become natural, your hair will look just like Sasha's. You will be disappointed. Natural hair textures are so varied from person to person. People have multiple hair types, textures, densities, and colors, that each head of natural hair is pretty unique. Transition because you want to be natural and be willing to except the waviest of hair to the kinkiest of hair and anything or mix in between.

Last but not least, do your research!!!!
There is nothing that frustrates me more than someone complaining about how difficult it is to transition without having done any research. There is no excuse. The information out there is endless. Ask people questions, go on youtube, search forums, look at blogs, do a google search. Just do something. For those of you still in the consideration zone, research before you make the choice to go natural. See what things may be required of you before you jump into it. There is a difference, and I find that those who are uneducated about what the differences are before they start are the ones most likely to give up. I especially think Youtube is great. There is such a great presence of the natural/transitioning community on youtube nowadays, which makes it one of the best resources for people transitioning or newly natural now, as you are able to actually see these people, their methods, struggles, and their progress. Forums are great for actually interacting with others with the same goal and for forming a support system.

Here are some places to start:

Websites, Blogs & Forums
longhaircareforum.com
naturallycurly.com
blackhairmedia.com
nappturality.com
curlynikki.com
thenaturalhairhaven.blogspot.com

Some youtubers

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=kimmaytube#p/u
http://www.youtube.com/user/Sera2544
http://www.youtube.com/user/Nikkimae2003
http://www.youtube.com/user/RusticBeauty?recommended=0
http://www.youtube.com/user/ItsMsHeatherNicole?recommended=1
http://www.youtube.com/user/curlychronicles#p/u
http://www.youtube.com/user/PRETTYDIMPLES01#p/u
http://www.youtube.com/FreeWorshipFreeWors#p/u/2/TfOCBvMEBH4
http://www.youtube.com/user/BeautifulBrwnBabyDol#p/u/9/54y6XytcjHQ
http://www.youtube.com/user/AFR0ST0RY#p/u/20/BKfBK7TmP-Y
http://www.youtube.com/user/AyannaNaeela
http://www.youtube.com/user/br0nzeqt
http://www.youtube.com/user/cynthiarf#g/u
http://www.youtube.com/user/crownofHisglory#p/u/0/cG_YqQMOpxU
http://www.youtube.com/user/chisellecouture#p/u/12/ryif4exbU0o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIbcxu9UgOc&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6wFWeUg4r8
http://www.youtube.com/user/BlackOnyx77
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFSq1vN9PRE&playnext_from=TL&videos=Jv9dbih-a8U


.
...y'all get the point. There is so much out there. Do a search on Youtube for subjects like "natural hair," "transitioning to natural," "transitioning hairstyles, "detangling transitioning hair, " and other such subjects that may be of interest to you. Also check out some groups on FB. There is a big one called "natural hair" which is also a good way to learn more. Many naturals also have fotki's (fotki.com) which allow for photographic documentation and journaling. Do a google search of natural hair with fotki's, natural hair & fotki's, or the like. And of course, feel free to ask me or other naturals, any questions that you may have. I'm always willing to help!


Happy Hair Growing!!
Bee

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

1 1/2 years of being natural: visual


*click picture to enlarge*



Ok. I finally made my collage for my hair progress. This shows how my hair has grown over the last 1 1/2 years. The ones of me in the red shirt are from around the time that I did my big cut, while the one in my gray shirt is from right before the big cut. So i'm pretty much back to where I was before I cut off my relaxed ends. Theones with the black straps are from the beginning of the year, right after my 1 year naturalversary. And the bigger ones are from the end of my 3 month cycle. Considering that I've trimmed a couple of inches off of my hair 2-3 times since the big cut including the last one during the middle of this last cycle (I get a little scissor happy sometimes...working on it), I'm pleased. Also looking at it, I think I've retained more during this challenge as compared to the year before. I guess this is working for me, and I'll continue with it. I'm looking forward to what my 2 year will bring:)

I didn't have time to reinstall the next twist set after a week, so my hair has actually been out for almost 2 weeks. But, they're going back into the twists by the end of this weekend.

I'm going to work on some other collages for how I play with my twists and what I do with my hair when it's out.